Difference between revisions of "Naryar's DSL tips"
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== What you should know == | == What you should know == | ||
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*DSL is made and supposed to be realistic. DSL tournaments use the realistic rule (no stacking, no overlapping). And you risk being criticized if you showcase unrealistic DSL bots. | *DSL is made and supposed to be realistic. DSL tournaments use the realistic rule (no stacking, no overlapping). And you risk being criticized if you showcase unrealistic DSL bots. | ||
| − | *Several motors are more suited for drive. These are Copals, Astroflights, Slimbodies, Drive magmotors ( | + | *Several motors are more suited for drive. These are Copals, Astroflights, Slimbodies, Drive magmotors (TWM3's and TWM3R's drive version), NPCs (all of them) and drive E-teks. |
| − | *In DSL 2.1, all weapons are balanced, unlike Stock. DP is how powerful the weapon is, and hitpoints is how tough the weapon is. Choose what is appropriate: do you want your bot to be more damaging or more defensive ? | + | *In DSL 2.1, all weapons are balanced, unlike Stock. DP (damage potential) is how powerful the weapon is, and hitpoints is how tough the weapon is. Choose what is appropriate: do you want your bot to be more damaging or more defensive ? |
== What you shouldn't do == | == What you shouldn't do == | ||
| − | * | + | *Never use [[DSA]]. Even 1mm Plastic is much better. Keep DSA for Stock. |
*Empty space. Same applies for Stock. | *Empty space. Same applies for Stock. | ||
| − | * | + | *Never use weapon motors for drive. Even Copals are better than Piglets (that are 9kg heavier) for drive. |
*Classic tribars aren't that effective in DSL. If you want to use a tribar, take the Whyachi one. | *Classic tribars aren't that effective in DSL. If you want to use a tribar, take the Whyachi one. | ||
| + | *Using drive motors for spinning weapons is not really a good idea because your weapons will have much less max RPM's, so less damage - however the spinup time is shorter with drive motors. | ||
== What you should do == | == What you should do == | ||
| − | * | + | *Look for the total output of your bot (add all the amps provided by batteries) and the total output (add all the amps drained for motors). You can generally underpower slightly (output being superior to input) your bot, but not if it uses burst motors and not more than 50%. |
| + | |||
| + | *Titanium and Plastic armors (especially titanium) are the best. | ||
| − | * | + | *Using wedges is a good idea on most designs. You may use any wedge you mant, but some wedges are better than others - just experiment. |
| − | * | + | *Currently, wheels are unbalanced. If you need a fast bot, use the grippiest wheels you can (the selection of grippy wheels is basically, Tornado, Vladiator, Techno Destructo, Wheely Big Cheese, Hypnodisc and Overkill ones, as well as the DSL wheels and motorcycle wheels). Grippy wheels make your bot faster. |
| − | * | + | *External defense (metal sheets are particularly good) is generally better than heavy chassis armor. |
| − | |||
== Last thing == | == Last thing == | ||
| − | As you can see, DSL provides for WAY more building variety and less restrictions than Stock, and you can build good bots with your own personal building style, but unlike Stock you have nearly no tutorials. | + | As you can see, DSL provides for WAY more building variety and less restrictions than Stock, and you can build good bots with your own personal building style, but unlike Stock you have nearly no tutorials. |
Just build, try and gain experience. You'll be a decent (or even good) DSL builder quickly. | Just build, try and gain experience. You'll be a decent (or even good) DSL builder quickly. | ||
Revision as of 12:19, 8 May 2009
What you should know
- DSL is made and supposed to be realistic. DSL tournaments use the realistic rule (no stacking, no overlapping). And you risk being criticized if you showcase unrealistic DSL bots.
- Several motors are more suited for drive. These are Copals, Astroflights, Slimbodies, Drive magmotors (TWM3's and TWM3R's drive version), NPCs (all of them) and drive E-teks.
- In DSL 2.1, all weapons are balanced, unlike Stock. DP (damage potential) is how powerful the weapon is, and hitpoints is how tough the weapon is. Choose what is appropriate: do you want your bot to be more damaging or more defensive ?
What you shouldn't do
- Never use DSA. Even 1mm Plastic is much better. Keep DSA for Stock.
- Empty space. Same applies for Stock.
- Never use weapon motors for drive. Even Copals are better than Piglets (that are 9kg heavier) for drive.
- Classic tribars aren't that effective in DSL. If you want to use a tribar, take the Whyachi one.
- Using drive motors for spinning weapons is not really a good idea because your weapons will have much less max RPM's, so less damage - however the spinup time is shorter with drive motors.
What you should do
- Look for the total output of your bot (add all the amps provided by batteries) and the total output (add all the amps drained for motors). You can generally underpower slightly (output being superior to input) your bot, but not if it uses burst motors and not more than 50%.
- Titanium and Plastic armors (especially titanium) are the best.
- Using wedges is a good idea on most designs. You may use any wedge you mant, but some wedges are better than others - just experiment.
- Currently, wheels are unbalanced. If you need a fast bot, use the grippiest wheels you can (the selection of grippy wheels is basically, Tornado, Vladiator, Techno Destructo, Wheely Big Cheese, Hypnodisc and Overkill ones, as well as the DSL wheels and motorcycle wheels). Grippy wheels make your bot faster.
- External defense (metal sheets are particularly good) is generally better than heavy chassis armor.
Last thing
As you can see, DSL provides for WAY more building variety and less restrictions than Stock, and you can build good bots with your own personal building style, but unlike Stock you have nearly no tutorials.
Just build, try and gain experience. You'll be a decent (or even good) DSL builder quickly.